You’ve got the quiet ones sitting there on their board waiting for THE wave.
You’ve got the loud ones who react to every move and wave everyone does or take.
You’ve got the ones lying on their board with one leg up.
Most, keep a full body on the board, legs straight and butt tight stirring with their upper body, focused forward.
You’ve got the ones who try almost every wave,
and those who wait for the perfect one which hardly ever come.
While all, keep their eyes on the surface of the ocean looking for the smallest changes which predict the wave to come.